Wrapped In Love Blanket Online Course Part 4

welcome

Let’s continue crocheting your Wrapped in Love Blanket and finish up to the end of row 48. If you’re making the Single Snuggles, Lounge Snuggles or Double Snuggles size, you will finish at row 36.

Remember to fill in your progress worksheet as you’re crocheting.

To make the videos go faster or slower, adjust the controls in the bottom right corner of the video screen – click on the gear icon, and then change the speed setting.

Share your crochet photos in our Chunky Crochet for Mindful Makers Facebook group, and tag your Instagram photos with @homelealass #homelealass #wrappedinloveblanket.

row 31

  • ch 1 (this is the turning ch and doesn’t count as a st)
  • htr (hdc) into each stitch across, putting a stitch marker into the top of the first and last st
  • turn {- (-, -, 36, 44) [54, 56, 70] sts}

row 32

  • ch 1 (this is the turning ch and doesn’t count as a st)
  • dcblo (scblo) into each st across, moving the stitch marker up into the top of the first and last st
  • turn {- (-, -, 36, 44) [54, 56, 70] sts}

row 33

  • dc (sc) into the first st, ch 1, move the stitch marker to the top of this st
  • skip the next st and tr (dc) into the following st, then tr (dc) into the skipped st – the tr (dc) will wrap around the previous tr (dc). Repeat this until there is 1 stitch remaining.
  • tr (dc) into the last st, moving the stitch marker up into the top of the st
  • turn {- (-, -, 36, 44) [54, 56, 70] sts}

row 34

  • ch 1 (this is the turning ch and doesn’t count as a st)
  • dc (sc) into each st across, moving the stitch marker up into the top of the first and last st
  • turn {- (-, -, 36, 44) [54, 56, 70] sts}

row 35

  • ch 1 (this is the turning ch and doesn’t count as a st)
  • htr (hdc) into each stitch across, moving the stitch marker up into the top of the first and last st
  • turn {- (-, -, 36, 44) [54, 56, 70] sts}

row 36 (last row for the Single Snuggles, Lounge Snuggles and Double Snuggles sizes)

  • ch 1 (this is the turning ch and doesn’t count as a st)
  • dcblo (scblo) into each st across, moving the stitch marker up into the top of the first and last st
  • turn {- (-, -, 36, 44) [54, 56, 70] sts}

check the width and height of your crocheting

Now is a good time to check the width and height of your crocheting. To do this lie your crocheting out flat and measure along the length of the row, and then the height of the last 6 rows.

This design width and height of your blanket is given in the table below. If your measurements are close to this, it means that your unique crocheting tension is similar to the design.

If your row width or height is shorter than the design – it means that your tension is tighter than the design and you may use less yarn than the design. You can change this by using a larger crochet hook, or you can just keep going. You may find that as you progress, you’ll relax, and your stitches will get looser and bigger.

If your row width or height is longer than the design – it means that your tension is looser than the design and you may use more yarn than the design. You can change this by using a smaller crochet hook, or you can just keep going. You may find that as you get more familiar with making the stitches, your stitches may get tighter and smaller.

row 37

  • ch 1 (this is the turning ch and doesn’t count as a st)
  • htr (hdc) into each stitch across, putting a stitch marker into the top of the first and last st
  • turn {- (-, -, -, -) [-, 56, 70] sts}

row 38

  • ch 1 (this is the turning ch and doesn’t count as a st)
  • dcblo (scblo) into each st across, moving the stitch marker up into the top of the first and last st
  • turn {- (-, -, -, -) [-, 56, 70] sts}

row 39

  • dc (sc) into the first st, ch 1, move the stitch marker to the top of this st
  • skip the next st and tr (dc) into the following st, then tr (dc) into the skipped st – the tr (dc) will wrap around the previous tr (dc). Repeat this until there is 1 stitch remaining.
  • tr (dc) into the last st, moving the stitch marker up into the top of the st
  • turn {- (-, -, -, -) [-, 56, 70] sts}

row 40

  • ch 1 (this is the turning ch and doesn’t count as a st)
  • dc (sc) into each st across, moving the stitch marker up into the top of the first and last st
  • turn {- (-, -, -, -) [-, 56, 70] sts}

row 41

  • ch 1 (this is the turning ch and doesn’t count as a st)
  • htr (hdc) into each stitch across, moving the stitch marker up into the top of the first and last st
  • turn {- (-, -, -, -) [-, 56, 70] sts}

row 42

  • ch 1 (this is the turning ch and doesn’t count as a st)
  • dcblo (scblo) into each st across, moving the stitch marker up into the top of the first and last st
  • turn {- (-, -, -, -) [-, 56, 70] sts}

check the width and height of your crocheting

Now is a good time to check the width and height of your crocheting. To do this lie your crocheting out flat and measure along the length of the row, and then the height of the last 6 rows.

This design width and height of your blanket is given in the table below. If your measurements are close to this, it means that your unique crocheting tension is similar to the design.

If your row width or height is shorter than the design – it means that your tension is tighter than the design and you may use less yarn than the design. You can change this by using a larger crochet hook, or you can just keep going. You may find that as you progress, you’ll relax, and your stitches will get looser and bigger.

If your row width or height is longer than the design – it means that your tension is looser than the design and you may use more yarn than the design. You can change this by using a smaller crochet hook, or you can just keep going. You may find that as you get more familiar with making the stitches, your stitches may get tighter and smaller.

row 43

  • ch 1 (this is the turning ch and doesn’t count as a st)
  • htr (hdc) into each stitch across, putting a stitch marker into the top of the first and last st
  • turn {- (-, -, -, -) [-, 56, 70] sts}

row 44

  • ch 1 (this is the turning ch and doesn’t count as a st)
  • dcblo (scblo) into each st across, moving the stitch marker up into the top of the first and last st
  • turn {- (-, -, -, -) [-, 56, 70] sts}

row 45

  • dc (sc) into the first st, ch 1, move the stitch marker to the top of this st
  • skip the next st and tr (dc) into the following st, then tr (dc) into the skipped st – the tr (dc) will wrap around the previous tr (dc). Repeat this until there is 1 stitch remaining.
  • tr (dc) into the last st, moving the stitch marker up into the top of the st
  • turn {- (-, -, -, -) [-, 56, 70] sts}

row 46

  • ch 1 (this is the turning ch and doesn’t count as a st)
  • dc (sc) into each st across, moving the stitch marker up into the top of the first and last st
  • turn {- (-, -, -, -) [-, 56, 70] sts}

row 47

  • ch 1 (this is the turning ch and doesn’t count as a st)
  • htr (hdc) into each stitch across, moving the stitch marker up into the top of the first and last st
  • turn {- (-, -, -, -) [-, 56, 70] sts}

row 48

  • ch 1 (this is the turning ch and doesn’t count as a st)
  • dcblo (scblo) into each st across, moving the stitch marker up into the top of the first and last st
  • turn {- (-, -, -, -) [-, 56, 70] sts}

tell me what you think

Is there something you love about this pattern, or perhaps there’s something that could be improved? I’d love to hear about it, so tell me what you think here.

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